Mountaineering

With eight of the highest peaks in the world, Nepal has been the focus of some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. For many decades the dauntless icy peaks have posed as challenge to those who dare. There are some 326 peaks in Nepal open for mountaineering today. Government of Nepal opened around 175 peaks in the last two years to mark the Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebrations.

Climbing permit to scale the Nepal Himalayas is issued in all seasons by the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. Certain official documents are required to seek permission for climbing peaks. Around 121 peaks do not require liaison officer for expedition. Fees or ties depend upon the altitude of the peak starting at US $ 1,000 for peaks below 6,501 meters and rising by US $ 500 for every 500 meters. Climbing gears and equipments can be bought or rented in Kathmandu. Many mountaineering and trekking agencies also offer packages that take care of needs like gear, food, transportation, guide and porter services. They also arrange insurance. Visitors should choose an agency that has good track record.

Nepal Himalaya is known as the rooftop of the world. The Himalayas are the highest mountains in the world. Their scenery is legendary. These mountains have had an air of mystery until recently. Even today, the vast area of the Himalaya is untouched. It has always remained a source of fascination and inspiration for people from all walks of life in the world. Himalaya ("Him" means snow and "Alaya" means abode), the abode of snow and the Gods, extends about 2500 Kilometers. The Brahmaputra (Assam) in the east and Indus river in the west demarcate the length of the Himalaya. It is 300 Kms wide and rises nine kilometers above the sea level.

The Nepal Himalaya is in the centre of the Himalayan range. Eight peaks that exceed 8000 metres including the world's highest peak Mt Everest are the prominent members of Nepal Himalaya. It has a convergence of 1310 magnificent peaks over 6,000 metres. Nepal has become famous through out the world due to these mountains.

It is a very interesting thing to know that there was a sea (the Tethys sea) between Indian Gondwana continent (Indian sub continent and Eurasian continent). Around 70 and 80 million years ago, the Himalaya began to come into existence. It is a peak of each evolution only about 10 to 20 million years back. Therefore, the Himalaya is extremely young and geologically active. According to geologists, mountains are growing at a rate of 15 cm (6 inch) a year as the Indian plate moving northward and forcing under the Eurasian plate. This process (plate tectonics) causes the earthquakes in this region. Geologists say that the collision of continents is squeezing up sedimentary rocks that were once below the sea. The mountains of Himalaya are the result of the collision of continents.

World's Highest Peaks8 out of 10 in Nepal

His Majesty's Government has made the following rules by exercising the power of Section 56 of the Tourism Act, 2035 B.S (1978 A.D)

Regulation Relating To Mountain Tourism In Nepal

The Himalayas are huge mountain range stretching 3,000 km east to west and the Nepal Himalayas is the largest and the highest occupying 800km across, with eight peaks that rise above 8,000m. including the highest Mountain of the world , The Mt. Everest . Ever since the country was first opened to climbers if 1949, Nepal Himalayan has become a great theatre of mountaineering activity and the drama of success and failure have provided impetus to more men to meet the ultimate adventure. It is therefore, through all the ages, Nepal Himalayan had been the center of attractions to the whole world, be it saints, philosophers, researchers or adventures.

Permit to be obtain for Mountaineering:

All mountaineering team, desirous of obtaining a permit in Nepal, shall submit an application in the form as prescribed, to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section (Tel:256228,247037,256231;Fax:227281) enclosing therein a recommendation of the concerned government, or of Mountaineering Association (U.I.A.A) or a recommendation of the Embassy of its home country for the kingdom of Nepal, ordinarily four months prior to its proposed mountaineering expedition.

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) :

There are 18 peaks in the range of 6,500m and below, open for Alpine trekking under Nepal Mountaineering Association. It should be noted that in most cases the climbing of these peaks requires snow and ice climbing experience . Detailed information and application for climbing permits are available from the Association’s office (Tel: 434525, Fax:434578, Kathmandu) or contact your trekking agency in Kathmandu.

Submission of route map for Mountaineering Expedition:

Every mountaineering team, while submitting an application to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section for a mountaineering permit, should submit a map, as prescribe which clearly depicts the caravan route and the expedition route.

Payment of Climbing Permit Fee (Royalty):

The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within two months of the date of permission. In case of the failure of the payment of royalty within two months, such permission may be cancelled.
The climbing permit fee (Royalty) must be paid directly in favor of the ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, either by bank draft or bank transfer to Nepal Rashtra Bank, Thapathali, Kathmandu, payable in convertible foreign currency.

Equipment for expedition:

His Majesty's Government may provide the following facilities to any Mountaineering team which has obtained permit for mountaineering expedition:

To import and use temporarily, during the expedition such number of walkie – talkies not exceeding 12 and two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the nearest police station or the place where the means of telecommunication is available on the condition that such sets shall be taken back to the home country of the team after the end of the expedition.
Partial exemption of customs duty on the goods and materials imported for the expedition.
Two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the capital city Kathmandu, provide the mountaineering team desirous to use such facility shall have to hand over one of the two sets of wireless to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, for its use during the continuation of the expedition.

Filming:

The Ministry of Information & Communication (Tel: 228333; Fax :266400) located in Singha Durbar, must be contacted for queries about filming during the expedition. Permission is required for filming.

Mountaineering Regulation:

The Royalty and the size of the Expedition Team:

More than one team may be permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a separate route each in one season.
A Royalty of US$50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of seven members. The team may include 5 more members provided it pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visa. Additional, US$ 20,000 will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal south – east ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members for the minimum, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the accent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20,000,if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south east ridge route
For peaks other than Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay an additional 25% of the royalty in US$ to change the ascent route.
Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of the garbage from Nepal.

Mountaineering Royalty (in US$)

Classification of Peaks

For the expedition including for each additional up to 7 members member exceeding 7 members in expedition up to a total 12 members in a team Peaks above 8000 meter.

(excluding The Mt. Everest	10,000	1500
Peaks of 7501 – 8000 meter	4,000	500
Peaks of 7001 – 7500 meter	3,000	400
Peaks of 6510 – 7000 meter	2,000	300
Peaks below 6501 meter	15,00	200

The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section , has opened up 133 Himalayan Peaks ranging from peaks above 6,500 meter to the Mount Everest (8,848meter) for foreign or joint expeditions. Likewise, The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) offers 18 Himalayan Peaks for Alpine trekking.

For More Information Contact:
Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation
Mountaineering Section
Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel :977-1-256231, 256234, 256228
Fax: 977-1-227282
E-mail : tourisminb@mos.np