KATHMANDU: A Sherpa climber made first ever successful summit on Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in the autumn season leading a team of international climbers in Pakistan, according to the expedition organiser.
Mingma Gyalze Sherpa (31) along with Zhang Liang, A Zhong, Jing Xue, Phur Galjen Sherpa, Pasang Namgel Sherpa, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Sirbaz Khan successfully stood atop the ninth highest peak in the world on October 2 making first ever autumn summit on the mountain.
“The team reached base camp on September 16 and made successful ascent on October 2 in a short time as the weather remained really good during our climb,” Sherpa shared with this daily.
According to him, this is his 5th 8,000m summit in 2017 and also the 12th 8,000m summit. “Among them, I have made 11 ascents without supplemental oxygen,” he said.
Earlier, Sherpa-led team had also reached the summit ridge of Nanga Parbat in June but didn’t make true summit. Though the climbing season in Pakistan has generally closed every year from mid- August but this year he formed a team to climb Nanga Parbat, he added.
Five-time Mt Everest summiteer Sherpa had scaled Mt K2 on July 26 and Broad Peak without O2 on August 04 in Pakistan. He also scaled Mt Makalu and Mt Dhaulagiri without supplemental oxygen in the last spring season. He has already made solo first ascent on 6,685m – Chobuje peak via the West Face in 2015.
According to Sherpa, Zhang Liang completed his 14 peaks and registered China in 14 Peak Club whereas other members A Zhong completed his12th 8,000m and Jing Xue completed 11th 8,000m. “The only Nepali Yalung Khang-8,505m summiteer Phur Galjen Sherpa and Pasang Namgel Sherpa also climbed Nanga Parbat. Pasang is also the only Nepali Lhotse Shar (8,400m) summiteer.”
The team was accompanied by Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Sirbaz Khan. Muhammad Ali also climbed the mountain for 4th times and he is also among the members of first winter Nanga Parbat summiteer from his country, he added. Mingma plans to run Mt Kanchenjung expedition in the 2018 spring.
– By Rajan Pokharel for THT